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“It was dusk and as the big vessel steamed out of Hakodate harbor, the sun was setting in one quadrant, a full moon was rising in another. On all sides of us, the open water was dotted with tiny wooden boats, each outfitted with luminous painted lanterns whose light was useful for attracting squid. It was as though the gods had plunked me down in the middle of a Hokusai wood-block print from the early nineteenth century. A solitary figure on the uppermost deck was playing a flute, ethereally, wistfully, as if coaxing the stars to come out of hiding, and, heart drumming an earthy accompaniment, my deep attraction to Japanese culture was rekindled.”

- Tom Robbins, Tibetan Peach Pie, p. 264-265

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